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Madison Named #1 Small Town in America

Talk
about dodging a bullet: In 1864, General Sherman was Marching to the Sea and
razing everything in his path, which happened to include Madison's grand
planters' homes. Luckily, one resident was a Georgia senator who happened to be
a pal of Sherman's brother. Sherman and the senator came to a "gentlemen's
agreement," and the general moved on. Though much of this pretty town is
now a national historic district, it doesn't feel like a museum. To be sure,
tree-lined Post Office Square, with its brick sidewalks, has its share of
antiques shops and galleries. But there's nothing precious about the place: They
make a mean milkshake at Madison Drug, and you can get pretty much whatever else
life requires at the town's big old hardware store. For all that, the ladies are
still addressed as "Miz Polly" and "Miz Eulalia," and
pulling up a rocking chair on a big shady front porch, julep in hand, still
counts as a day well-spent.
-Travel
Holiday Magazine
Georgia Town Savors its Place in
History
Madison, Ga. -- When a national travel magazine named Madison the best small
town in the America last summer, life here suddenly got busy."The networks
came in, and so did newspapers," says town spokeswoman Marguerite Copeland.
"We began to see an increase in the number of visitors."
Now that flurry o f
publicity has waned, which suits Madison's citizens just fine. While house
hunters from nearby Atlanta are still scouting the Madison area, "were
trying very hard not to be 'suburbs,'" Copeland says.
Situated just off I-20 east of
Atlanta, Madison is an hour's drive from the Georgia metropolis. It's a good
place to stop en route between Atlanta and points in South Carolina. It's also
an appealing detour for motorists headed from Savannah to Atlanta.
Although it's a long commute on a
busy thoroughfare, the drive from Atlanta is worth it for those who appreciate
Madison's small-town ambiance, antebellum homes, and proximity to the Lake
Oconee recreation area.
Madison has another distinction.
It's known as "the town Gen. Sherman refused to burn." It is one of
the few communities left intact by the Civil War general who torched everything
in his path during a march from Atlanta to the sea in 1864. The exception of
Madison came about through the intervention of one of Madison's leading
citizens, Sen. Joshua Hill. A strong opponent of secession, Hill also was a
friend of Sherman's brother. He used those credentials to negotiate a deal with
the general to spare the town. As a result, Madison possess an uncommon trove of
antebellum houses.
One of them is Hill's former home, a
mansion on Academy Street, where many of the antebellum houses are. Like most
other such homes in Madison, it is privately owned and cannot be visited. But
another sumptuous home, Heritage Hall, is open to the public year-round
A sophisticated example of Greek
revival architecture, the columned Heritage Hall has 14-foot ceilings and is
furnished in the elegant style of the period. It also boasts an unusual feature.
"Visitors say they've seen the
ghost of a young woman in the upstairs bedroom," says Sandra Brow n,
a volunteer docent. Some also say an image of the woman who died in that room at
a young age, can be seen on the hearth of the bedroom fireplace. But it takes a
bit of imagination to visualize.
Another home open to the public, but
less exalted, is the middle-class Rogers House, built in the Piedmont Plain
style common in the rural South. It is a comfortable home, but hardly on the
scale of the expansive Heritage Hall.
Next to it is the small Rose
Cottage, which Adeline Rose, a former slave, built in 1891 and occupied until
her death in 1959. In her early years, Rose made a living by taking in washing
and ironing. One of her customers was the Hardy House, a boarding home owned by
the mother of rotund comedian Oliver Hardy.
Several Victorian homes also have
been preserved. Most celebrated of them is the Hunter House. An 1883 Queen
Anne-style home with an elaborate spindle-work porch, it is probably the most
photographed structure in Madison.
Taken together, those four homes
present a picture of the 19th century life in the rural South. AS might be
expected, Madison's cache of period homes has made it an important stop on
Georgia's Antebellum Trail, a 100-mile tour that covers seven towns in the heart
of the state from Athens to Macon.
In the same region are 10 cities,
including Madison, that make up the state's Antiques Trail. Madison has seven
antique galleries, plus 15 arts and crafts shops, in its small downtown area.
But antiques and 19th-century homes aren't Madison's only attraction.
Small-town ambiance is what brought
most people to Madison --and kept them there. "This town has changed a
lot," admits Jimmy Cunningham, whose father founded the popular Olde
Colonial restaurant. "But it's nice-sized and you know everybody. That
makes a difference."
Cunningham's restaurant occupies an
old bank building on the perimeter of downtown's Post Office Square and its
charming array of dogwood, oak, and gingko trees. An intriguing feature of the
restaurant is that a party of four can take their meal in the old bank vault.
At the other end of the scale is Ole
Murray's, whose decor is nothing to boast about. But the small diner carries a
reputation beyond its size. Soul food is its specialty: fried chicken, pig's
feet, collard greens, black-eyed peas, and the like.
"I always use fresh foods,
nothing from cans," says owner Betty Murray. Now, that's real down-home,
just like Madison itself.
-Jay
Clarke
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